In 2012, Tony and I decided to move to the Philippines. For me, it was about seeking new adventure and stirring up the pot (though I think I put it into a boil). For Tony, it was about returning to home and family. So on December 4th, I said goodbye to work and two days later we boarded the plane to Manila. This is an effort to chronicle our travels and some observations along our journey.
Sunday, November 30, 2014
The Intramuros and Fort Santiago
The Intramuros (latin for "within the walls") is the heart and soul of historic Manila. The old walled city of Manila was built starting in the 1500's by the Spanish to protect their colonial settlement from invaders. Only the Spanish and a few of those very well connected with them lived inside these walls during more than 300 years of colonial rule.
The Philippines hasn't done a great job at preserving it's history (in my opinion), but the Intramuros is an exception. In spite of the fact that much of the Manila, including the Intramuros, was leveled during WWII, most of the original wall and many buildings inside remain and have been restored and preserved. You can see great examples of Spanish colonial architecture in a number of buildings.
Tony's grandmother lived in the heart of The Intramuros in the late 1800's and early 1900's. Being Filipina, it's not clear how she was able to live in an area typically reserved for the Spanish elite. There is wild family speculation that her father may have been the illegitimate child of a Spanish priest enabling them to live inside the walls, but no one really knows.
Two significant churches remain including the Manila Cathedral (where the pope will say mass in January) and the San Agustin church, oldest in the Philippines. The San Agustin church is especially interesting and has a number of history displays. I've walked through it several times and love it every time.
Fort Santiago is at one end of the Intramuros along the Pasig River and was built to help defend the settlement against invasion. Again, although heavily damaged in the war, quite a bit remains and is now well preserved. If you know anything about Philippine history, this is also where national hero Jose Rizal was imprisoned before being executed nearby, one of the catalysts for rebellion against the Spanish in the late 1800's.
The Intramuros and Fort Santiago are definite "must sees" on a visit to Manila.
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